Photographing icebergs and wildlife in the polar regions is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have with a camera. The landscapes are vast, the light is unusual, and the animals are unlike anywhere else on Earth. But the same conditions that make it special also make it challenging. Cold, glare, and moving subjects can test even experienced photographers.
This guide gives you simple, practical tips to help you capture those moments, whether you are heading to Antarctica or the Arctic.
Preparing Your Gear
Choose the right camera
You don’t need the most expensive setup, but a camera that handles cold and has good image quality is important. A DSLR or mirrorless body with interchangeable lenses gives flexibility. If you prefer something lighter, a high-end compact with a strong zoom can also work.
Lenses to pack
- Wide-angle lens (14–24mm / 16–35mm): Perfect for icebergs, glaciers, and sweeping landscapes.
- Telephoto lens (100–400mm or similar): Essential for penguins, seals, and birds. Also useful for capturing whales at a distance.
- Mid-range zoom (24–105mm): Good all-purpose lens if you want to carry one.
Accessories
- Polarizing filter: Helps cut glare from ice and water.
- Extra batteries: Cold drains them fast. Keep spares in an inside pocket close to your body.
- Plenty of memory cards: Shooting in RAW files takes space.
- Lens cloths: Condensation and sea spray happen often.
- Rain cover or dry bag: Protects your gear on Zodiac rides.
Camera Settings for Icebergs
Icebergs reflect huge amounts of light. Cameras often underexpose, making ice look gray.
- Exposure compensation: Increase by +1 or +2 stops to keep the ice white.
- Shoot in RAW: Gives flexibility to adjust exposure and color balance later.
- Check the histogram: Avoid “clipped” highlights where the ice loses detail.
- Use manual mode if comfortable: Adjust ISO, aperture, and shutter speed to control light precisely.
For scale, include a Zodiac boat, seabirds, or part of the ship in your frame. This shows how massive the ice really is.
Camera Settings for Wildlife
Wildlife moves fast, so you’ll want settings that freeze the moment.
Shutter speed: At least 1/1000s for birds in flight. 1/500s works for seals or penguins walking.
- Continuous autofocus (AI Servo/AF-C): Keeps moving animals sharp.
- Burst mode: Shoot several frames per second to catch action like whales breaching or penguins diving.
- ISO: Raise it if needed to keep shutter speed high. Modern cameras handle ISO 1600–3200 well.
Patience is key. Instead of chasing animals, wait quietly. You’ll often capture natural behavior—penguins feeding chicks, seals stretching, or birds flying overhead.
Composition Tips
Good photos are about more than sharpness. How you frame the subject matters.
- Rule of thirds: Place subjects off-center to create balance.
- Leading lines: Ice cracks or waves can guide the eye toward your subject.
- Foreground interest: A piece of ice or rocks adds depth.
- Show scale: Put people, kayaks, or ships near icebergs to highlight size.
- Negative space: Leave open sky or water around wildlife for a sense of isolation.
Don’t forget vertical (portrait) shots. Tall icebergs, cliffs, or whales surfacing often look better in vertical frames.
Light and Timing
Light is everything in photography. In polar regions, it behaves differently.
- Golden hour: The soft light around sunrise and sunset makes ice glow blue and gold.
- Midday: Light can be harsh, but reflections create dramatic contrasts.
- Overcast: Softens shadows, great for close-up wildlife shots.
- Polar summer: In places like Svalbard, the sun doesn’t set. You can photograph at 2 a.m. under magical low light.
- Storms and fog: Don’t pack the camera away—these conditions can create moody, unforgettable images.
Always be ready. Weather changes fast, and the best light may last only minutes.
Safety and Ethics
Photographing responsibly is just as important as getting the shot.
- Respect distance: Never get too close to wildlife. Use a zoom lens instead.
- Follow guide instructions: Expedition staff know safe distances for both you and the animals.
- Don’t disturb animals: If a penguin or seal changes behavior because of you, step back.
- Stay safe yourself: Slippery decks, icy landings, and rocking Zodiacs can lead to accidents. Always secure your gear with straps.
Extra Tips
- Scout with binoculars first. Many expeditions provide them, or you can bring your own. They help spot whales or birds before lifting your camera.
- Keep gear warm. Store batteries inside your jacket. Cold metal lenses can fog up if you suddenly bring them indoors.
- Use both hands. Zodiacs move, and stability is limited. A wrist strap or harness can prevent accidents.
- Practice at home. Learn your camera settings before the trip so you’re not fumbling in the cold.
Related Guides
If you want to prepare further for your trip, check out:
FAQ
What is the best camera for photographing icebergs in Antarctica?
A DSLR or mirrorless with interchangeable lenses works best. But a high-end compact with strong zoom also does well if you want to travel lighter.
How do you photograph wildlife in the Arctic without disturbing them?
Use a telephoto lens and keep your distance. Stay quiet, avoid sudden movement, and let the animals act naturally.
What time of day gives the best light for iceberg photography?
Golden hours—early morning and late evening—produce the most dramatic colors. In midsummer, low-angle light can last for hours.
Do I need a telephoto lens for photographing penguins and whales?
Yes. A lens of at least 200mm helps for penguins, and 300–400mm is ideal for whales and birds. Wide-angle lenses work for landscapes and group shots.
How can I keep my camera safe from the cold in Antarctica?
Carry extra batteries in warm pockets, use a rain cover for Zodiacs, and avoid sudden temperature changes to reduce condensation.
What’s the difference between photographing wildlife in Antarctica vs the Arctic?
Antarctica offers penguins, seals, and whales in mostly icy landscapes. The Arctic has polar bears, walrus, reindeer, and seabirds with tundra and cliffs as backdrops. Both regions have unique light and conditions worth capturing.
